Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
